V6ll Transmitter & RF60X
Is there a secret in getting the V6ll to fire the RF60s remotely? They should fire with the built in transceivers...
I do not have profiles for my new RF60s (I have two) I didn't think I needed a profile and can't find them anywhere...
I have no problem with a Canon 580 EXII and other flashes, I can shoot HSS up until 1/8000 sec with my XT2 but not in TTL mode, doesn't recognize the Canon TTL. These are wonderful devices but too many variables between the V6II, the speedlites and cameras themselves... I have tried most functions and have spent hours on this, oh yeah, I have all the latest firmware updates. Seems like it's all on the market before being ready... I'd appreciate it if anyone has a solution...
Thanks!
ALG
Comments
You definitely do not need RF60x profiles. It would be good if you could put an RF60x in the same group ("A" is the default) as a V6II receiver and see whether the RF60x also activates when a flash on the V6II receiver fires.
Try both using the camera and the V6II test button.
P.S.: It wouldn't hurt to post the actual firmware version numbers. Some people were under the impression simply using "Update" on the Firmware Updater would give them the latest version whereas one really has to "check" for the latest versions with the respective button first.
Be sure to first update all the V6 II to the latest firmware version. Right now, it's 1.1.006.
For E-M1. our experience tells us that it's better to remove the camera's hot shoe metal spring plate in order to have better communication between the V6 II and the camera.
Switch on the camera first, and then the V6 II to TX mode and at the same time half-press camera's shutter button and the V6 II will auto-detect the camera system.
Also to check the distance between camera and the RF60X. If you are placing the flash between 10cm to 3m, be sure to set the work range to SHORT.
Menu > Radio Setup > Work Range.
On the RF60X, set the flash to SLAVE (S) mode, and set both V6 II and RF60X to the same channel and group.
Hope these tips help!
Brand Manager
When we had ours in the studio from a friend it was okay as soon as we removed the metal spring plate. We didn't notice any forward / backward travel of the V6 II on camera hot shoe as all we did was sliding it in all the way.
In your case maybe you could add some distance by placing a small piece of masking tape at the front end of camera hot shoe. See if this works better for your setup.
FYI this method was required on the NIkon D750 due to the special hot shoe requirement.
Thank you.
Brand Manager
Brand Manager
Brand Manager
As you are using a Nikon camera, you don't need to bother with "forced HSS". That's only necessary for Fujifilm cameras.
To answer your question: You only need one V6II in Tx mode to fire your RF60x flashes.
You don't need to mount an RF60x on the V6II. That won't help anything (except if you want to have the flash in that position for mobility).
What is your "CAMERA SYSTEM" set to on the V6II? While you can manually set it to "NIKON", I suggest that you set it to "AUTO" and check whether -- after turning on the V6II in Tx mode -- you see an "N" in a small camera symbol on the V6II display. If you see that, the V6II has recognised your camera and HSS should work.
Perhaps try tapping the shutter button of the Nikon camera, while you are turning on the V6II (instead of just half-pressing it).
If that does not help, perhaps try moving the V6II in the camera's hot-shoe a bit. On the D750, for instance, one needs to pull back the V6II ever so slightly to achieve full connectivity (the fact that the flash fires does not tell you that all the other smaller pins are making contact as well). Once you have moved the trigger, turn it off and then on again (while tapping the camera's shutter release button).
The only other suggestion I have is to try another firmware version. You can downgrade as well as upgrade, so you don't have anything to lose by trying another firmware version.
Good luck.
P.S.: A sharper video showing more of the settings would help. Perhaps try uploading it to YouTube, in case the source is fine and the quality just suffered by uploading to Facebook.
Please refer to page 201 and 202 in the user manual from the above link."
Brand Manager
Thanks for the update.
I think on some other Nikon models, you have to set it down to 1/200s otherwise there's banding issue. But for most 1/250s should work just fine.
Brand Manager
x-post from Facebook:
Recently a few Nikon D750 users inquired about #hotshoe connection issues with the #CactusV6ii. It is a problem with this particular Nikon camera as studied by Fstoppers.
https://fstoppers.com/originals/stop-fighting-hot-shoe-your-nikon-d750-110295
Recently a few #Nikon #D750 users inquired about #hotshoe connection issues with the #CactusV6ii. It is a problem with this particular Nikon camera as studied by Fstoppers.
https://fstoppers.com/originals/stop-fighting-hot-shoe-your-nikon-d750-110295
On the original V6, this D750's problem only affects you when you mount a Nikon flash with TTL Pass Through on the V6. But on the new V6 II, because it runs on digital TTL protocol (V6 is analogue only), connection with the camera on all hot shoe contact pins is required at all time.
To fix the gap on the "slightly different" Nikon hot shoe, you may put one or two layers of masking tape at the front of the hot shoe to offset the distance so all the contact pins are correctly aligned.
FYI, in early 2015 we modifiied V6's bottom hot shoe to have a better fit with the D750 but it is still not 100%.
http://www.cactus-image.com/community/discussion/comment/588/#Comment_588
We have kept the same bottom hot shoe on both V6 and V6 II, but there seems to be a slight deviation across different copies of the camera. So the masking-tape-trick would be your best bet to keep a consistent hot shoe connection between the camera and the flash device.
Brand Manager
Brand Manager
Both are on the same group and on the same channel.
On group A i have a Canon 580EX ll on a V6ll and that works fine, so what is going wrong?
Brand Manager